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Gota Patti of Rajasthan
Originating from Rajasthan, the Gotta Pattiwork is a spectaculartype of appliqué-embroideryon the ethnic wear of the Rajasthani womenfolk.Also called ‘Lappe ka kaam’, it involves a lot of technique. Gota Patti work is customarily done on dresses, dupattas, sarees, Ghagras and even turbans. Popular worldwide, people wear clothes adorned with this special embroidery on festivals or any kind of special occasion because of the gold and glittery look that it bestows.
Evolution of Gotta Patti Work:
Started as an accessory of royal garments, Gotta Patti was originally manufactured in Surat, Gujarat and Ajmer. Jaipur however is now the hub for gota patti work with approximately 50,000 to 60,000 men working on gota, in the town of Naila.
The woven gold cloth was placed onto silk to create various surface textures that were complemented by ‘kinari’ or edging border decoration. The silk would be inundated in shapes of wildlife and nature on gold cloth encased in wires of silver and gold. The overall effect was one of enamel or meenakari jewellery. This technique soon travelled to remote areas of Rajasthan and women here started adorning their tie and dyed dupattas with trims of gotta. The strips were arranged in a way that when the dupatta was draped over the head, the border would fall to become visible.
Process Involved in Gotta Patti:
In the olden days, while real gold and silver was used, it is not feasible now for obvious reasons and so polyester is used in place of the metals. The polyester is metalized and coated according to the design that has to be interlaced with the cloth. The shiny bands are then interwoven with the looms that are going to be sewn down to the material. Decorative patterns which appear to be like Zari are patched on the textile to give the complete impression.
Chapaayi:The production of placing gota patti work onto fabric begins with ‘chapaayi’. This is the process of printing the pattern of the desired design onto the base fabric. ‘Khaat’ or a wooden frame is set up to which the fabric is tied using thick cords. Then, tracing paper with perforated pattern is placed on top and rubbed with chalk powder to print the outline of the design on to the fabric.
Takaayi:After the Gota work is done, Patti is incorporated in the tapestry. Patti pertains to the leaf shapes that are generally used for the embroidery. This process is called ‘takaayi’ where the patti is folded and cut to form motifs of geometric patterns. A wide variety of threads like cotton, silk and metal are used to create outlines for these shapes thus enhancing their look.
Silaayi:‘silaayi,’ is the final stage where the fabric is tailored into a finished garment. Detailing like ‘latkan’ or dangling charms, buttons and borders add to the charm and beauty of the fabric.
The patterns used are inspired by things relating to nature like leaves, flowers, and animals. The borders of the attire are also embellished with the Gota work. Although it may seem that the intricate adornment would make the outfit very heavy to wear but actually it is quite light. Chiffon, georgette and satin are the standard fabrics used for Gota Patti work which prevent the clothing from becoming burdensome to wear.
Gotta Patti Today:
In more recent years, there is a greater concentration of using gota along with other embroidery techniques. There are newer designs, mostly floral that are in vogue. The gota are cut out into finer shapes and the designs include a lot more detail of beading, sequins and semi- precious stones. The gota patti lends its glorious and surreal designs to colourful lehenga cholis, kurtas, sarees and dupattas. Gota patti embroidery today is a common form of embellishment for bed spreads, bags and household upholstery. However, the traditional tie-dye dupattas that once adorned the women in rural Rajasthan, draped with bright gota floral motifs have become a rarity.
Shatika brings a whole new range of pure Bandhej Handloom sarees with an ample of Gota patti work on them to accentuate the beauty of traditional Rajasthani bandhani sarees.
Six yards of elegance and comfort. That is what a saree is. We don’t think ….
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